Debaufre Ocean 1 Classic Edition Review

On a Maratac Mil strap.




On a waterproof leather band

On a 22mm Nato for a change of pace



Lume shot

Have you ever had one of those moments when you make an annoying mistake in slow motion. Sort of like locking your keys in your car. You see the door closing, realize with panic what is happening, and then...clunk...the door claps shut with your keys locked inside. This is invariably followed by a few choice words and then with the feeling of resignation that you will now have to deal with the problem you just created.

You may be wondering about now what this has to do with the Debaufre Ocean 1 Classic Edition. Well, not long ago I acquired an Ocean 1 for a song before the Debaufre name change happened. It was a beautiful piece (note the use of past tense) and I regularly wore it when swimming with my kids. Well, one day my brother-in-law was over and he commented about how sweet the Ocean 1 was. That's when the car door went clunk. In a moment of brain lock I took off the watch, handed it to him and said, it's yours-enjoy it. (For those of you who know me from the Poor Man's Watch Forum, this is the same guy I gave my Seiko 009 to. At least I'm consistent). As he left my house, smiling at the new Swiss diver on his wrist, that little voice in the back of my head spoke up. You know the one; it says "IDIOT!! Why did you do that!!"

Well, since I really missed having a sub-homage diver, enter the Ocean 1 Classic Edition. As you can see from the pictures above, this is a really beautiful watch. The resemblance to a certain other diver of note is evident albeit with a few touches that differentiate them very nicely. The Classic Edition is an all stainless steel diver that is rated at 300 meters water resistance. Clearly water should never be a problem for this one. The crystal, which also includes a cyclops magnifier, is made of sapphire to ward off scratches and the lume is superluminova that remains visible in darkness for a few hours. (It's not in a Seiko diver's league but it is pretty good, better than the previous example that I had as a matter of fact). The Ocean 1's bracelet is a heavy solid-link design that includes solid end links (Hollow end-links are a pet peeve of mine as those of you who have read my other reviews already know. They are tinny and bend easily. It is amazing how many otherwise nice watches are ruined by them. Are they really that expensive to make?) In addition to the lume being improved on this model, the bracelet feels better too. The old Ocean 1 had a good but not great bracelet. The one on the Classic Edition is tighter and has a better clasp. The watch features a stylized screw-down crown with the Debaufre star logo cut into it. Lastly, the Ocean 1 features a unidirectional rotating bezel with an embedded luminous marker. (The reason a diver watch has a bezel that only spins counter-clockwise is for safety. If you are timing your dive, it is important that the bezel used to mark the safe limit of your available air not rotate clockwise if banged against something. That could confuse you into extending you dive time in a dangerous way).

Visually, the Ocean 1 is a big watch in keeping with today's trend toward large men's watches. It measures 42 mm in width (46 mm with the crown), is 13 mm in thickness, uses a 22 mm band lug width and weighs a tick under 7 ounces. The reason it is called the "Classic Edition" is because of the markers on the face. They are larger and more reminiscent of, ahem, a certain other diver.

Internally, the Ocean 1 Classic Edition is powered by a Sellita SW200 26 jewel automatic movement. For those of you who are scratching your heads and saying Sellita??, they are a Swiss movement company who provide movements to a number of watch manufacturers these days including Oris and Breitling among others. They also may represent the future of the non-Swatch Group movement suppliers. ETA, the division of the Swatch Group that supplied everyone and their uncle with movements up to now has decided to greatly restrict this practice. See: here for more details. This thread on Watchuseek.com also discusses this development. From a practical standpoint this matters little as the SW200 is a drop-in replacement for ETA's popular 2824-2 movement and its performance is apparently excellent. Service should not be any problem either. In terms of accuracy, my example is currently running at +8 seconds a day. Not bad at all for a mechanical watch right out of the box. Lastly, like the ETA 2824, the SW200 can be hacked and hand wound if those features matter to you.

In summary, the Ocean 1 Classic Edition is a very fine timepiece in all respects. It has a great looking "wrist presence" and is comfortable to wear, even after a full day. If, like me, you are realistically never going to own a certain other diver that looks similar to the Debaufre (alright-Rolex, there I said it) this one is a great way to go. With its heavy stainless steel construction and water resistance, everything about the Ocean 1 says first class. It really feels, and I know how fuzzy that word is, like a much more expensive piece than it is.

As an aside, the Classic Edition has only been produced in limited numbers according to the Debaufre website. If it is sold out, or you like one of the other Ocean 1 models available there, pretty much everything I've said here is equally applicable to them except for the style of the face markers.

Seiko SBBN007 Tuna Can Review

On a waterproof leather band






On an aftermarket Watchadoo bracelet


On an aftermarket 22mm Nato









I love that line from Crocodile Dundee when he says "That's not a watch...THAT's a watch." All right, he may have said knife but if he had a Seiko Tuna Can, he would have said watch.

The Seiko SBBN007 is one of Seiko's Prospex Diver watches. The Prospex models are Seiko's upscale sports watches and the overall build quality, specifications and design are clearly at a much higher level than that of the more common 7S26 powered divers. All it really takes is one look at the SBBN007, nicknamed for obvious reasons the Tuna Can or just Tuna, and that difference becomes apparent. The fit and finish of the case and bezel on the Tuna are clearly a cut above what you find on models like the Monster. (Not that the Monster is a badly done watch at all. It�s a wonderful piece in its own right. The Tuna is just better, that's all).

The SBBN007 is a really massive timepiece. It's stainless steel case measures 48mm in diameter, not including the crown, 14mm in thickness and has a 22mm band lug width. It's crown is undecorated and, not surprisingly, screws down. It has a thick, domed, Hardlex crystal that is screwed down to the watch case for improved water resistance (Hardlex is Seiko's proprietary crystal material that is harder than regular mineral glass and more shatter resistant than sapphire (but not as scratch resistant). The lume is Seiko's Lumibright (Superluminova to Swiss watch fans. The Swiss actually license their lume paint from Seiko.) and lasts a long time for low light viewing (It's not quite in a Monster's league but it is close). The band is a rubber style diver's band, called the Daloaz, that is specially made for this watch, as I understand it. Water resistance is rated at 300 meters, which should certainly be deep enough for anyone.

Internally, a 7-jewel Seiko 7C46 quartz movement powers the Tuna. Battery life is rated at five years, which is really quite good. Accuracy, as is to be expected for a quartz movement, is excellent. So far, my example gained one second in the past week. I think I can live with that. The 7C46 is reputed to be a very strong movement as quartz movements go and, unlike many battery-powered movements, actually looks pretty good too. There is even some measure of decoration on this movement, a nice touch in my opinion. Additionally, the case back is inscribed with a set of numbers representing years. A small mark is engraved above the year that the Tuna�s battery should be changed. That is a neat little detail that further sets this watch apart from most others. It even has rate adjuster controls on the movement, not that I have the nerve to touch them.

The one characteristic of this watch that is most striking is the case design. It is essentially made of two main parts, a conventional watch case that holds the movement and an external shroud that surrounds it and is attached by screws. The result is a watch that really looks like a precision tool. The SBBN007 is one of a long series of shrouded Seiko divers that range from a 150-meter non-Prospex model to an all black model rated at 1000 meters water resistance (comforting to know that your watch will still work after your submarine has been crushed by water pressure).

I was very pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the Tuna is. For a really big watch, it does not feel unwieldy on the wrist at all. I think the reason for its good feel is that the lugs are very short. The watch wears closer to the wrist that way. It isn't dreadfully heavy either. All in all, even with its dimensions, it would still make for a good daily wearer.

The SBBN007 is generally not available in the U.S. through regular retail channels. I picked this one up, from a Japanese vendor named Seiya who was very good to deal with. The Tuna Can is not an inexpensive watch (this one set me back $479) but if you are ready to trade up to a higher end diver, I think its well worth it. Between its excellent quality and its striking and unique looks, it is a really exotic piece in my opinion. Seiko Tuna Can's have developed a very popular following and it's not hard to understand why. This model is that well done and I'm really expecting to enjoy it for a long time.

As an aside, if you really want in-depth information about this watch, or any Seiko for that matter, spend some time searching the Seiko-Citizen Watch Forum. There are some very knowledgeable folks over there.

Casio Super Illuminator Review

Fire Phasers!



The lume in broad daylight



Bracelet detail


The Casio Super Illuminator came to me by way of a fellow member of the Poor Man�s Watch Forum. It was at the big annual meeting in NYC where I first saw this watch and I commented about how nice it looked. At that, this generous soul handed me the Casio and basically said, it�s yours. Good stuff to say the least.

Lume fans, listen up. If Super Luminova isn�t super enough, Indiglo doesn�t glow for you and tritium is too radioactive, this is your watch. The Super Illuminator has a pair of lights at the 12 and 6 o�clock positions on the face that activate when the second crown (at the 2 o�clock position) is pressed. We are talking flashlight style light here folks. If you can�t see the face of the Super Illuminator, you should probably check out the review of the Braille watch I did a while back. This Casio is that well lit.

In terms of other specs, the Super Illuminator�s stainless steel case measures(at least this example, there are other case styles) 43mm in width (47mm with the crown), 14mm in height, and 51mm lug to lug. The watch uses a semi-integral, stainless steel bracelet (folded link design but quite nicely done) whose lug width is 12mm. Water resistance is rated at 100 meters and the 3 o�clock crown screws down (but not the 2 o�clock crown oddly enough. I don�t think it has to for water resistance purposes since it doesn�t turn either). In addition to the powered lume system, the watch also has conventional luminous paint on its hands and face. Additionally, the watch has a thick dome shaped mineral glass crystal and the bezel will turn counter-clockwise. The movement is an otherwise unremarkable quartz model (I believe the reference number of the movement is 3304) that exhibits typical superb quartz level accuracy.

There is really no downside to the Casio Super Illuminator. It is inexpensive, rugged, accurate and remarkably easy to read in low light. As an added bonus, it looks very good too. (I don�t know why but the domed crystal reminds me of an Oris.) This watch would make a perfect daily wearer for anyone who wants a good solid watch with no hassles.

Citizen NY2300 Automatic Diver Review

On an aftermarket Hadley Roma bracelet



On an aftermarket nylon Rhino band



On the stock rubber diver's band



Profile showing the short lugs



Profile showing the tapered case



The relatively unadorned caseback



Citizen is the world�s largest watch manufacturer and looking at their NY2300 diver�s watch, it�s not hard to see why. This model features an excellent combination of features for a really absurdly low price. There are several different versions of the NY2300. They differ in style and color in that some have a white face or gold lettering on the dial or an all black bezel. Mechanically, they are all identical however.

The NY2300 is a classic looking diver whose bezel (in this example) is another of the �Pepsi� type. (See the earlier reviewed Seiko diver). The watch measures 42mm in width (including the crown) 43mm lug to lug, 12m in thickness and has a 20mm band lug width. I was actually a bit surprised at these dimensions as the Citizen really looks and wears smaller than it is. I think this is because the lugs are short and taper in towards the body of the case. Additionally, the case itself narrows in width towards the caseback. The overall effect is to make the watch more compact in design and quite comfortable on the wrist.

In terms of specs, the NY2300 is powered by a Miyota 8200 21 jewel automatic movement (Miyota is to Citizen as ETA is to the Swatch Group. They make movements for Citizen�s line but also sell movements to third party manufacturers). The 8200 has been around since the 1970's and is quite well thought of. The movement can be hand wound but not hacked and includes both a day and date function. Accuracy on my example seems to be at about +20 seconds a day (which is not bad for a mechanical watch with no pretensions of chronometer level accuracy) but I have read that this movement can settle down in a few months with better accuracy. The NY2300 has a mineral glass crystal and is water resistant to 200 meters. The lume isn�t quite at a Seiko Monster�s level but it is very good nonetheless and remained clearly visible in darkness after a few hours. The stock band is a rubber diver�s model that is reasonably soft and comfortable. Lastly, the bezel has a very firm and precise action and will turn in only a counter clockwise direction like most good diver watches.

The NY2300 is in most respects very similar to many other automatic divers. Where it excels in comparison with other such watches, however, is in its price. The example seen here was new for well under $100.00 on the world wide tag sale. That is easily 1/3 less coin than similarly featured Seiko diver and a fraction of the cost of a Swiss automatic diver. The only obvious concession to economy is the choice of a rubber band, which realistically will need to be replaced after a few years of wear and tear. That being said, an after market bracelet or even a nylon nato style band can be gotten for very little money when the time comes.

To sum up, the Citizen NY2300 is an exceptionally good value that should give years of trouble free service. If you are looking for a solid water sports watch or just a good daily wearer or beater, but want to avoid a battery driven quartz watch, the NY2300 is a hard choice to argue with. It would also make an excellent introductory piece for someone interested in a quality mechanical watch who isn't prepared to commit to a large purchase at the outset.
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Vostok Neptune Review

The Vostok Neptune is a colorful relative of Vostok�s popular Amphibia model. Like the Amphibia, the Neptune has a 2416b 31 jewel automatic movement and is rated at 200 meters water resistance. Both models feature a stainless steel case, Vostok�s typically thick acrylic crystal and the company�s standard weak lume. Where the two models differ is in the shape of the case and, in particular, the bracelet as well as the dial design. Additionally, to the best of my knowledge, Neptunes were not military issue Vostoks, despite using the same hardware.

As is obvious in the photos, the bracelet/lug design of the Neptune is unique to the Vostok line. Unlike most watches, the Neptune does not use a conventional lug and spring bar mounting system. Instead, the watch case has a notched end through which a pin is mounted. The end link of the bracelet is mounted on this pin to hold the bracelet on the watch. The overall look is rather unusual but nonetheless good looking to my eye. The obvious issue with this design, however, is that it would be very difficult to mount an aftermarket bracelet on a Neptune. That is a mark against the Neptune in my opinion because the stock bracelet is really just adequate. It is made of stainless steel and appears quite strong but it uses folded instead of solid links that frankly feel a bit tinny.

The most striking feature of the Neptune are the graphics on the watch face. The image is supposed to represent the sun setting over a lagoon. In addition, the chrome markers on the face are of the floating variety (they are mounted in such a way as to appear to float above the rest of the watch face). I can understand that the look wouldn�t appeal to everyone but for a Russian watch, this is positively festive in appearance. In addition to the watch face, the Neptune uses its own bezel design with a bezel insert, like many other diver style watches available. It should be noted that the bezel�s quality appears superior to that of most other Vostok models.

The Neptune measures 39mm in width (43mm including the crown) 43mm vertically (lug to lug so to speak), is 14mm in thickness and has a bracelet that is 20mm wide at the attachment point. For those who may be tempted to mount a custom bracelet or strap on this one, the central mounting notch/lug is just under a centimeter in width. Despite the quality of the bracelet, it is comfortable on the wrist (some folks have described the bracelet as a hair puller but I haven�t encountered that particular flaw). The Neptune was made in blue, green and brown. It doesn�t currently appear on Vostok�s website leading me to suspect that it has been discontinued. New models do appear on the bay however, and for a collector of Russian watches, the Neptune is certainly a welcome if offbeat addition.

Debaufre GMT 2 Review

On a waterproof leather band


















The Debaufre GMT 2 represents a number of firsts for me. It is my first Debaufre for starters (since the name change from Steinhart took place). It is also the first watch I own with a GMT capability. Lastly, it is my first Swiss watch with ETA's 2893-2 movement. These three firsts combine to make for a very pleasing experience.

As I mentioned in my previous review of the Ocean One diver, Steinhart had to change its name under the threat of litigation from another company who thought that their names sounded too alike for trademark purposes (Steinhausen is reportedly the company that had a problem with the name). Rather than roll the dice on a lawsuit, Steinhart took the high road and changed their name to Debaufre, in honor of an early watchmaker who developed several innovations in timepiece design. (For more information about the historical Debaufre watchmakers, this article discusses them about halfway down) After clearing their old inventory, Debaufre has now launched under its new name and brings a variety of interesting and affordable Swiss watches to the market through their website.

The GMT 2 being reviewed here is one of Debaufre's new designs. The watch features a stainless steel case, a stainless steel solid-link bracelet with a branded flip lock and screw pins (that also, thankfully, include solid end links; hollow end links tend to rattle and bend over time), a good sized, easily gripped screw-down crown and a fixed stainless steel bezel with a twenty-four hour scale engraved into it. The GMT 2 is a big watch in keeping with today's trend towards large men's watches. The case and bracelet feature a combination of brushed and polished stainless steel finishes that result in a very handsome overall appearance without being flashy or gaudy. In terms of size, the GMT 2 is 42mm in width (not including the crown), 50 mm lug to lug, 13 mm in thickness and has a 22 mm band lug width. This watch is no lightweight either. At just under seven ounces, it feels very solid on the wrist. The Debaufre also features a sapphire crystal with a cyclops magnifier (the best material to ward off scratches) and superluminova lume on the hands and watch face (the best glow in the dark method available short of tritium tubes). Water resistance is rated at 300 meters, which is seriously deep by anyone's standard. Don't worry about getting this one wet.

The most obviously interesting feature about the GMT 2 is that large red fourth hand on the face. That is the GMT hand. (For an in-depth discussion about Greenwich Mean Time see this page on Timezone). In a nutshell, the ETA 2893-2 movement in this watch can essentially track time in two different locations simultaneously. The conventional three hands (hour, minute & second) mark time locally while the GMT hand can be independently set to the time at some other spot on the planet. Once set, there is nothing else for the wearer to do. The two systems will track their respective time zones as long as the movement has stored power (And since this is an automatic movement, all one need do is wear the thing for it to keep going. There is no battery to croak on you). If you travel regularly or even make long distance calls to folks overseas, this feature is a wonderful convenience.

The ETA 2893-2 movement is considered one of ETA's high-end models and can be found in many well known brands. (ETA incidentally is the largest of the Swiss watch movement companies. Until recently they sold many movements to other companies for use in their watches. It is my understanding that this practice will be ending soon and many watch companies will have to look to other suppliers for movements. ( Aside-This is not a concern for buyers though. If a jeweler in east nowhere can service a movement, it will be an ETA movement). Sellita seems to be a popular choice and their SW200 movement has been well received.) Technically speaking, the 2893-2 movement is a 21 jewel automatic that runs at 28,800 bph with a 42 hour power reserve. In addition, the movement allows for hacking and hand winding. Subjectively speaking, this is one of the smoothest winding movements I have ever encountered. As someone who collects Russian watches, I am used to movements that sound like they are grinding up rocks as they are wound. This thing is so smooth that I thought it must be broken at first. It is really a pleasure to wind it up. The accuracy of this example is impressive, currently running at + 2 seconds after twenty-four hours.

To wrap this up, the GMT 2 is an all around terrific watch. It is solidly built and its water resistance and stainless steel construction pretty much assure that it will last for a very long time. It is also, to the best of my knowledge, the least expensive watch available with its combination of features (2893-2 GMT movement, stainless steel case, 300 meter water resistance & sapphire crystal). If you want the feel and performance of a high-end watch without having to worry about your significant other threatening to kill you for spending the money on one, this is your watch. That it looks as good as it does is icing on the cake.

As an aside, there is a nice article in this month�s issue of Watchtime about the name change from Steinhart to Debaufre.

Vostok Ministry Amphibia Review

Bracelet detail


Caseback detail


The signed clasp


The subject of this review, the Vostok Ministry Amphibia is mechanically very similar to the previously reviewed Vostok Amphibia. Both watches feature 200 meter water resistance, a thick, domed acrylic crystal, Vostok's rugged 2416b automatic movement and the company's trademark crummy lume. Where these two models differ is in the case design. Both are made of stainless steel but that is where the similarity ends.

The Ministry Amphibia is much larger than previous Amphibia designs. The cushion case measures 40 mm in width (43 mm including the crown), 14 mm in thickness and 45mm lug to lug. Additionally, the band lug width of this model measures 22 mm instead of the usual Vostok 18 mm standard. The overall effect is a much more solid feel on the wrist. The stock bracelet on this model is a stainless steel folded link design. The overall quality of the bracelet is somewhat better than that of previous Vostok models. It�s still not great (nothing a nice Watchadoo couldn't improve on) but it suffices.

Ministry Amphibias aren't the most common type of Vostok and their availability can be hit or miss. I picked up this one on the global tag sale from Zenitar's store for a pretty reasonable price. If you are a Vostok or Russian watch collector, a Ministry Amphibia would make a fine addition to any collection to say nothing of a good daily wearer/beater.