TW Steel Icon Review
Its been a while since I bought a watch based on looks alone. In fact, I can safely say I had not done so since I began seriously collecting watches ten or so years ago. Well, there has to be an exception to every rule and that exception is the TW Steel model you see above. Fair warning, this review may read a bit like a travel gazetteer.
A little background first. For our twentieth wedding anniversary, my wife and I decided to travel to Montreal. Neither of us had ever been to Canada before and, since we weren't traveling with the kids for the first time (Yippie!!), it seemed prudent to stay close enough that we could get back to NYC quickly if need be. Montreal, if you haven't been there, is a fascinating city. There is a lot of very interesting history there. The scenery around the city in the Laurentian Hills is very beautiful, the underground city is genuinely remarkable, you can rent bicycles all over the place, and, despite the prevalence of French as a language, everyone was friendly and spoke English as well. ( I can speak a little French which was helpful at times but was by no means necessary) . The city has a very European character in many ways. There are brands and signage that we Americans don't usually see. Restaurants are both varied in national cuisines and plentiful. Lots of good shopping can be found. There are apparently more churches here than in Rome. All in all, Montreal struck us as a friendly and prosperous place with a lot to offer. We are already planning our return, this time with the kids.
What I didn't know is that Montreal seems to have a nice watch shop every few blocks. Even the small towns in the Laurentian Hills had some very nice stores. For a watch collector, this place is very nice indeed. In addition to the usual Tissots and Omegas and the like, there were brands available that I was aware of but don't really see in the States all that often. One store I stumbled on to carried a nice selection of Briel watches, while two others carried the Netherlands brand TW Steel.
TW Steel (The Watch in Steel) is a relatively new brand dating from 2005. They are located in Amsterdam and specialize in big to very big watches. Styles are very interesting ranging from conventional chronographs to aviators like the one above to huge 50mm models with canteen crowns. Movements run the gamut from quartz to ETA 2836-2 automatics. All of their models seem to feature a heavy, nicely machined stainless steel case in one of several finishes. Their leather bands are all very well done. The leather is in the 3-4mm thick range and the buckles are both solid and engraved. Bracelets appear to be all solid link and well made too. Crystals are mineral, some with sapphire coating. Many of their models have an auto racing theme and the company is apparently working with the Renault racing team.
The TW Steel Icon model you see above is sort of their entry level model. Visually, the Icon is a strikingly attractive watch to my eye. It is an aviator style watch with a 45mm stainless steel case (not including the big crown btw), a 22mm band lug width and a beveled mineral glass crystal. The Icon's caseback is nicely decorated and screws down. The movement is a Miyota 2415 3 hand quartz with a date function, a solid and reliable engine if not an exotic one. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters which is fine as this isn't a diver watch. The crown does not screw down (which actually doesn't bother me that much anymore as I've had the pleasure of stripping a screw-down crown recently) and the dial has no lume (Which I prefer to crappy lume anyway. If it ain't Seiko style superluminova or tritium tubes, don't bother).
I like this watch because it has that classic aviator watch look without the huge price tag. (Yes, I know that there are Chinese aviator watches with mechanical movements available for less than the $200 that this one cost me but their quality and overall feel aren't even close to the TW Steel's). I'm not prepared to drop $800+ dollars for a mechanical aviator and, frankly, I'm a little gun-shy about wearing one of those anyway as I've already had one spit blood on me (That's a story for another day). The Icon's rugged quartz movement should have no such issues. The watch has a nice heft to it and the overall quality feel is enhanced by the thickness of the leather band. The dial is very simple and easy to read and the dark hands offer excellent visual contrast. The date window is clear and easy to read despite the lack of a cyclops magnifier (which I think would detract from the look of the watch anyway).
If you are a fan of the Laco/IWC Fleiger watch look but want a more practical and affordable variant that is still solidly built, the TW Steel Icon deserves a good look. For what it's worth, it is one of the few watches I own (and I own just a few you know) that my wife really likes.
P.S.-I picked up this example at Poussiere de Diamants, a jewelry and watch store in St. Sauveur in the Laurentian Hills. Very nice folks with a good selection of both TW Steel watches as well as other brands. TW Steel watches include a 2 year warranty.
Rubber Bands
An Uzi Protector on a stock rubber band
A Seiko Tuna Can on its stock Seiko rubber band
A Debaufre Ocean 1 on a Modena band
A Debaufre Aircraft 8 on a Modena band
An Adi mil-watch with an integrated rubber band
An Uzi Ballistic on its stock rubber band
A modern Amphibia on a Modena band
A late eighties vintage Vostok Amphibia on an unusual stock Vostok rubber band with integral compass
A Seiko Landmonster on a stock Seiko rubber band
An Adi ana-digi diver on a Modena rubber band
As much as I like a well made leather watch band, there is no getting aound the sticky reality that they don't wear very well in hot or humid climates. For those of us who live in places with regularly changing seasons, this reality has created a little ritual every spring where the leather bands that held our watches so nicely during the fall and winter are removed an replaced with hot weather alternatives.
Now, if you want to spend some money and you have a watch that would appropriately benefit from an investment, get a nice solid link stainless steel bracelet. I've written several reviews where the benefits of a good bracelet are discussed. However, as the name of this review above suggests, there is another alternative for hot weather that works really well too. This is, of course the rubber (or silicon) band. This style of watchband is commonly offered as a standard accessory with many diver watches but, thanks to a variety of new designs, rubber bands can be retro fitted to just about anything these days. It doesn't hurt that the price of admission is also, generally speaking, very low.
In the photos above, there are a number of watches that either came stock with rubber bands or were fitted with them by me for hot weather wear. A well made rubber watch band is completely waterproof, light in weight and pretty durable. Sweat, water and grime should have no effect on them at all.
My favorite supplier of aftermarket rubber watchbands is Modena Watch Company (I have no connection to them if you are wondering). They have a wide variety of different bands available, and their prices are usually under $20. If one of your favorite watches is regularly sidelined for fear of ruining its leather band, an inexpensive rubber alternative is a no-brainer.
Seiko Landmonster SNM037 Review
On a WJean mesh bracelet
First off, let me start by saying that I don't particularly like the SNM037's accepted nickname, Landmonster. It sort of implies, to me at least, that the watch is not meant for the water. As this is a diver's watch with a 200 meter water resistance rating, I think a more descriptive nickname is called for. Additionally, with the exception of the hands, there is little that this watch shares with the SKX779 Monster. If I was going to nickname a diver with a built-in compass, I'd call it the navigator. However, since Landmonster is the name that seems to have stuck, I'll use it here too.
As anyone who owns a Seiko diver knows, Seiko has really just about perfected the concept and execution of the affordable mechanical dive watch. Like the Monster itself or the 007 or the 009, the Landmonster exudes that classic Seiko diver feel that suggests not only very high quality and durability but a price that you would think is a lot higher than it actually turns out to be. That Seiko can continue to hit one home run after another the way they do with these diver watches suggests a well oiled design and production system. The result of this team's work has allowed millions of ordinary folks worldwide to enjoy the experience of owning a quality made mechanical wristwatch. Here's hoping for many more such winners.
The Landmonster is a strikingly unique looking diver's watch. From it's large thick case design to it's two large crowns and it's rotating bezel, no one is likely to mistake this big Seiko for anyone else's creation. As for the nitty gritty, the watch measures 47mm from the bezel to the widest part of the crown guard (43mm without the crowns/guard), 51mm lug to lug, 16mm in width and a 20mm band lug width. In a nice touch that greatly facilitates switching bands, the lugs are drilled. (Seiko also includes a set of its very thick Monster/Tuna style spring bars. I wish the rest of the industry would switch to these. They are the best spring bars by far in my opinion) The crystal is Seiko's proprietary Hardlex and the bezel is counter rotating with a firm precise action. The lume on the dial and hands is Seiko's typically excellent Lumibrite. Overall, I'd rate the lume as better than the 007 but not quite at the Monster's level. That, of course, still makes nighttime visibility for the Landmonster better than just about anything short of a Monster or a tritium tube watch. (I've heard that the Seiko "Spork" has terrific lume that matches the Monster now.)
No discussion of the Landmonster would be complete without some time spent talking about it's most unusual feature, those twin crowns. The 2 o'clock crown is a conventional diver's watch crown. It screws down and sets the time and date. It is large and easily gripped but, otherwise, it is ordinary. The second crown, however, is interesting. Like the upper crown, it too screws down. When opened though, it serves to adjust the internal chapter ring surrounding the dial. That chapter ring has directional markers on it. The Landmonster, you see, is designed to take advantage of a little known trick that allows a watch to work like a compass. In the northern hemisphere, if you point the hour hand at the sun, and then adjust the chapter ring so that South sits exactly between the hour hand an the 12 o'clock mark, the chapter ring will now be showing a correct compass bearing. In the morning hours put the South marker to the left of the 12 mark, in the afternoon, to the right of it. Obviously, this trick doesn't work at night or if it is cloudy out but, otherwise, if you live in the northern hemisphere, this watch is a compass as well as a fine diver's watch. I do have one minor quibble with this system. The screw down crown on the compass ring does not lock the ring when tightened. It isn't a problem really but the chapter ring will move a little throughout the day when worn. I can live with that just fine but it might bother some folks.
Internally, the Landmonster is powered by Seiko's 7s35 23 jewel automatic movement. The 7s35 is a derivation of Seiko's very popular 7s26 movement. It differs in that it has two more jewels and no day complication. Otherwise, like the 7s26, the 7s35 neither hacks or handwinds (the automatic winder does the job of powering the watch) and is both reasonably accurate and quite durable. 7s series movements are generally reputed to be very long lasting, in part because they lack hacking and hand winding hardware and the wear and tear they cause.
Overall, the Landmonster is no one's idea of a dress watch. As a casual/sport watch though, it is superb. Prices on the Landmonster are all over the place from what I've seen. Expect a good deal in the low $200 range with retail in the $400 area (as of 5/11). Visually the Landmonster has the same sort of "wrist presence" that a Seiko Tuna Can has. That, in my opinion, it's big appeal. It is so large and uniquely styled that, if you like divers, it is really worth a serious look. It's build quality is excellent and, it works well on both the stock rubber diver's band or a nylon Zulu band. Another version of this watch, the SNM035 comes with a solid link bracelet. (I have a mesh bracelet on the way from Wjean. That is a combo I've been looking forward to trying out.) What it certainly is not, is dull.
Ed's Corner-The Book
If you like the Russian watch reviews here, I have compiled and edited them in an ebook. For more information, see here.
The Last Bargain: NOS Poljot 3133 Chronograph Review
Let me begin by stating that the title of this review is a bit misleading. The watch you see above is probably not the very last inexpensive new old stock (NOS) Poljot chronograph floating around on the world wide tag sale. If you are patient and look hard enough, others can be probably be found. That being said, however, inexpensive Poljot 3133s are nowhere near as common as the were a few years back. Frankly, you are far more likely to find a new Volmax with this movement (or one derived from it) on the high side of $500 nowadays. It's a shame that truly cheap 3133 powered chronographs are becoming scarce but I suppose the party had to end sooner or later. With the dollar as weak as it is now (circa 2011) and the reality that the 3133 is a terrific movement that is really worth a fair price, I'm really quite happy that I found this one for only $159.00.
The watch arrived, new in the box, with the tag still on and without a band. To be honest, the lack of a band didn't bother me as Russian leather bands have generally been a disappointment every time I've encountered them. The example you see above currently resides on a beautiful Hirsch Trapper that I picked up from Watchprince a few years back. It's a nice soft padded leather band that, I think, compliments the watch nicely. The watchcase itself measures 39 mm in width (42mm with the crown) 45mm lug to lug, has an 18mm band lug width and is 12mm in thickness. It appears to be made of chrome-plated brass with a snap-on stainless steel case back. The crystal is a domed type made of acrylic. Water resistance is not stated so I would assume little to none in this category. Lastly, there is no lume whatsoever on the hands or watch face. That's ok with me as this is clearly a dress style watch. This particular example was produced after the wall came down. The included paperwork states that the watch was manufactured in 1996. That is consistent with the "Made in Russia" mark at the six o'clock point on the dial. Earlier models would have been marked CCCP.
Internally, this Poljot is powered by a 23 jewel model 3133 hand-wound movement. The 3133 is based on the Swiss Valjoux 7734. Back in the seventies, the Russians purchased the tooling from the Swiss for the 7734, made a few modifications, and produced the 3133. (The Russians raised the jewel count from 17 to 23 and increased the bph (beats per hour) from 18000 to 21600 among other things.) The 3133 is a well regarded movement that is known for it's long power reserve per wind and relative ruggedness as mechanical chronographs go. Despite the age of the design, it is still in production today and is often found in watches that cost many times what the model above ran me.
The watch itself works flawlessly. The winding mechanism is very smooth and the chronograph starts, stops and resets to zero perfectly. (On a 3133, you start and stop the chronograph with the two o'clock button and reset the hands with the 4 o'clock button. Do not press the 4 o'clock button while the chronograph hands are running. You can damage the movement that way.) The watch is not considered very large by today's standard but, for a dress watch, that's good in my opinion. The combination of the shiny chrome plated case and the silver finished hands produce an elegant and classic look, I think, that goes well with a suit or in an office environment.
If you are interested in acquiring an inexpensive mechanical chronograph, I highly recommend these Poljot 3133s. The movement itself has withstood the test of time nicely and remains a popular little engine today. That new examples now command fairly high prices is a testament to the quality of the design. Better still, if you can locate an inexpensive new old stock model like the one above, you'll be getting a bargain to boot. Don't wait too long if you want one of these though. There really aren't that many low priced examples out there anymore.
Finally got this old 2409 together
The movement in this Vostok case, a 2409 stemwinder, has resided in an old tonneau case that I had lying around. It looked good but the build wasn't correct. The tonneau case was generally built with the older 2209 movement, not the more modern 2409. The setup you see above is what it should look like. The watch case outwardly resembles a modern Vostok Amphibia but, on closer examination, you might notice it is thinner and has a flatter case back. That's because this was an earlier breed of Amphibia that was designed to use the 2409 manual wind movement, not today's 2416b automatic that is found in the current Amphibias. The dial case combination above is correct to the best of my knowledge. I have seen two other examples of this style for sale on the world wide tag sale which lends credence to the notion that it should look this way. Irrespective, the finished result is very handsome in my opinion and keeps time flawlessly. I may even treat this one to a re-lume job one of these days.
